Monhegan Island Delivers

The one hour passenger ferry steam from Port Clyde, Maine started a long welcomed journey to a point on the map with much to share. Near the coastal town of Rockport, Maine, visitors may choose a day trip from the port, or spend the Summer months living on Monhegan Island. My day trip to explore the island introduced me to Summer visitors, year-round residents and folks exploring like me. There are just 55 year-long residents. Many of those are lobster fishermen or staff of the few accommodations.

From some research in Port Clyde, where the ferry terminal is located, one can see the rich history of Monhegan to the Seventeenth Century of mariners, yet the culture of this island is now an artist haven. Lying 10 miles offshore and simply a few square miles in size, the two hundred foot elevation capped by its lighthouse is a first beacon to the sailors returning to the Northern Atlantic United States. There are no cars, but a few utility pickup trucks and a golfcart taxi service to service the two Hotels and the several room and board houses. Stretching up from the wharf are several well laid-out walking paths that meander through the Village and rise to the lighthouse. Hikers abound here, and a $1.00 map promotes the active search for the perfect sea view from the perfect ocean cliff.

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Bring a great pair of walking shoes. You will find nourishment at either the Island Inn, next to the wharf or other “In the Rough” food establishments, plus the Monhegan Brewery, nearby is in the Village and known for a fine pint. The artists that have found this island brag of the phenomenal light, the unique rocky outcroppings, and the abundant wildflowers under pine trees. Shops do promote their works.

One reaches Monhegan via Monhegan Ferry in Port Clyde or The Hardy Boat in New Harbor, Maine near Pemaquid Point. They charge about $50.00 roundtrip for adults. Dogs must be leashed at all times on the island. On animals: I saw grey seals, harbor seals, porpoise, cormorants, and hawks on the ferry ride and off the cliffs. I did not see a minke whale, humpback, or giant ocean sunfish. They are there!

I do love the Maine Coast and this treat was perfect for a long wished adventure. Let’s have a lobster roll!

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First Time Cruiser: fills all buckets

I humbly share that as a thirty plus year world-wide vacation traveler, Cruising was not a consideration to me. Yet, as a new entry to this arena of aboard ship vacation cruising, a new horizon has opened for me. The Princess Cruise Line and the magnificent ships, as the Princess Regal, beckon me to look at this industry for inspiration on new adventures.

Land based vacations do provide many opportunities to learn of new cultures, yet the benefits of the Princess Cruise enhances multi-attractions to experience new destinations over regions. The Dining Experience further provided me a chance to sample wonderful cuisine in many venues and varieties of cultures. On board entertainment and healthy exercise in numerous ways, stimulates all senses and fulfills these needs.

The crew on The Princess Regal give so much of themselves to the guest traveler by making them feel at home in a safe, clean and secure way. The personal acquaintance effects of The Medallion System let the crew become intimate of your needs and interests. Shore excursions are efficient and culturally diverse, though I became happy to find my “happy place” on a deckchair near one of many pristine ship pools. Daytime action on deck for sports and nighttime action in numerous lounges with entertainment hit all high marks. Crooners Bar and Lounge was a favorite due to the best cocktails and fine musicians of many talents.

Meeting new folks on board was not a problem, with all enjoying the experience of Princess Regal. Ultimately, I will search out a next new and longer excursion on a Princess Cruise Ship to exotic ports and share new adventures to you and stimulate your imagination toward your next Princess cruise.

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Nantucket: Keeping Lightship Baskets Handmade

The Scrimshaw on a newly woven basket.

A rare and wonderful tour was awarded to me to visit and chat with Susan Chase Ottison and husband Karl Ottison, at their Nantucket home and studio on a warmer than usual summer day on the island.  The  ground floor of the Head of the Harbor structure catches the cooler temperature breeze of the Nantucket Bay, and is a relief from the frenzied crowds in the lovely, but hurried town.  The studio gives a first impression of an 17th Century craftsman’s workshop of ancient tools and works.  Yet, a systematic tour by Susan organizes her space and process to hand weave and complete magnificent collections of Nantucket Lightship Baskets.  Known as the eminent expert on this talent, she is commissioned to custom design baskets and rehabilitate those of other master weavers.  The mid-day light filters through the studio window panes to reveal dozens of scrimshaw motifs ready to be mounted on future baskets. 

Last of an Artistic Talent

As a discussion on the future of the “On Island” specialty of highest quality craftsmanship is a concern to the best of the weavers, Susan reports to consider that she is slowing down her trade.  Craft shops on Nantucket may offer these goods, as many are of high quality and affordable at these times.  There are baskets that are imported from Asia and have very poor value and craftsmanship.  Susan is remarkable is her talents and newer students on Nantucket may hope to continue to learn from these masters. And, she relates on her business card:    The old saying goes, I was made in Nantucket, I’m strong and I’m stout.  Don’t burn me or lose me, and I’ll never wear out.  

 

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Yes, Elvis Lives

The seven miles of sugar white sand beach catches the gin clear six inch waves from the Western Jamaica sea daily.  Walking the waterline is an interesting pleasure because visitors will make at least fifty new friends on their hike.  The stretch from the remains of the salt petrified tree in front of Barry’s Bar on Negril Beach runs north easterly toward the boundary line of Couple Swept Away Resort Dive Shop, provide the finest tranquil swimming beach and the resort’s water sports areas.  Foot traffic from other resorts make up most of the pedestrian movement.

SHUT UP and FLY

Jamaica, W.I. in the Western Caribbean sea, just below Cuba, offers the best weather to provide great water sports. Trade winds blow off the Great Morass and down from the mountains to the beaches and cliffs of Negril, Jamaica. The earliest visitors from tourism found this area perfect for sailing , diving, snorkeling, fishing and swimming.  Today the beaches support an infrastructure of all the toys for a fine vacation.  The exception to the formula is no jet-ski watercraft are currently allowed by Parish Local Law.  No Problem, Mon, and peaceful on the ears, too! Longtime friend and Negril resident, ELVIS, works the area near Couples Swept Away.  His day starts early, just as the beach boys are raking the sand and arranging the chaise beach chairs.  By 10:00 AM the chairs are filled and the beach vendors have begun their quest with handmade jewelry, Aloe Vera plant  massages, straw hats, Bob Marley pendants, Coconut sculptures and every know island sales pitch of compelling style. These folk work hard. ELVIS stands in the middle of all with one goal: ” What can I get for YOU?”

ELVIS knows his customer will return again and again.  With his broad smile and likable tone, wit and energy, he walks the several hundred meters of beach with his chant: Parasailing!  The operation is seamless for this mission to get the people to the water’s edge, on the skiff out to the big fast boat and harnessed up and in the air. All day long the beauty of the Parachutes floating over the water just outside of the swim buoy lines attract more customers.  But ELVIS works on.  Negril, Jamaica lives on and the finer resorts, as mentioned, keep the tourist coming back year after year. ELVIS Lives.

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They’re Baaaack: Travelers reach for bargains in Boston

The Boston Globe Newspaper’s Travel Show heats up a Chilly Weekend

Give away twenty-four vacations and promise untold discounts to vacation hungry and they will come, and they did come.  The winter season provides the inspiration to the masses and the purveyors of varieties of travel near and far produce.  The anchor vendors to the 2014 Boston Globe Travel Show on February 7th, 8th, and 9th on the harbor front bring the warmth of the Caribbean, Europe offbeat retreats, Asia and the Pacific, while New England regions champion the cultures of food, the sea and mountains and day trips away to inns.

The hunger for taste and drink sets the stage.

Nova Scotia, Canada may be imposing in the dead of  winter but the heart and humor of the province comes through in the culinary specialties of the near neighbor. The taste of the sea and the wealth of the vines combine to give the attendees flavors that excite. Chef Jason Lynch of Le Caveau Restaurant and sommelier Amy Savoury of Tidal Bay Wines take you on a culinary journey featuring Nova Scotia scallops and wine.  Nova Scotia is now recognized as a culinary tourism destination and the trade has stepped up to provide. Local cheddar cheese, seafood and white wine round out the preparations with samples for the many throngs eager to partake.

Pan seared Atlantic sea scallops served over a wild beet puree, beure blanc sauce and a hint of creme. The  wine was white and crisp.

Your coupon may just be the ticket.

Area 2 bustles with dozens of Travel Booths dedicated to the warmth of the Caribbean Sea.  Salsa  music lilts  in the aisles and the Dominican Republic triple booth has swarms with activity.  Winning drawing gifts of bottles of Brugal Rum and on-site hand-rolled cigars, as well as island vacations under palm trees is good reason for the buzz.  Attendees sign up at the many terminals and the business is brisk.

The Boston Globe Travel Show offered a  successful season to present the best of values and creative ideas for winter weary vacationers.

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Bones of our Fathers: The Cemetery draws me

      My travel to a new destination is not complete without a journey to a local cemetery.  You may call me bizarre, as others have noted this trait as unusual.  I generally see that the culture of a land and the knowledge of an age long past is before my eyes upon walking past those gates.  A somber reflection, in a dignified manner, into the lives of those departed, opens my eyes to the needs to respect the dead.  The payment of homage and need to glorify the memory of a family member takes on so many differences in the cultures of my travel.  From an early age I found the monuments to the dead intriguing.  The walks through the cemetery take on a peace of their own.  Ancient or modern in design, open wide or grown over set a tone.  The maintainers of the gravesites add to the culture.  My earliest remembrance came from a Victorian era matured cemetery in Connecticut, USA.  Though not in a New England wealthy town, the deceased  retained many beautiful and massive stones over their graves.  Many monuments reflected the touch of the sea with anchors and granite crosses adorned with cherubs and dolphins.  The cedar and cyprus trees were so mature that the shadows fell across most graves in a cloak of sadness.  Pools of fresh water in the hollows on the grounds drew weeping willow branches toward the reflections on the water and tears of leaves  floated down in the breeze. The families of the late 1800’s felt the sadness of loss of the loved ones and those graves clearly let the living feel the grief.

    In the heat of the noonday sun, no cemetery was more striking to explore than the Hassell Cemetery on the 5 square mile  island of Saba in the Leeward Islands of the Caribbean Sea.  This island is an upside down ice cream cone with a population of 2,000.  The lilliputian villages are populated by ancient seafaring Scot families and Carib/African descendants. The families had etched a space over several generations to bury the dead.  Volcanic in nature, the land required the above ground vault mausoleums.  These were not like the historic New Orleans, LA style, but more low-rise, in a dense plot of graves.  The island seaman would travel the world and return with glass and ceramic tiles from every culture.  Those tiles were then used to pave every inch of every vault in every color and mixed pattern. The reflection in the sun and the intensity of the blend is a vision of ingenuity.  Most crypts sport an oval photograph of the deceased imbedded on a raised head stone. Like a hotel washroom, the tiles are scrubbed and shined gleaming by the  families.  They were so proud of their graves.

   On the road to the last vestige of land of the mainland before touching the deep blue Aegean Sea and the islands of Greece, the villages of the Peloponnese area, known as Mani, gives us the color of a proud culture.  These fierce people from ages long past retain the memories of stoic, no, Spartan times in history. This culture retains religious veins of intense respect for the dead.  The honor of the departed parent is most evident here.  The graveyard of Greece is a family place and many times attached to the family’s own individual church. These churches serve as the last resting place.  Black-shawled women tend the grave/vault near the cubic whitewashed structure.  Within a glass-doored wooden tombstone are put vessels of  “holy water” and olive oil, photographs of family, incense, dried flowers, toys, “toma” or the pressed religious icons of silver, painted icons of saints, candles of golden bee’s wax and the list goes on.  The touching sadness of the stuffed toy puppy and the photo of the dark curled haired toddler speaks of this culture.  These are glimpses into a respect for life and the prayers for the departed.  The life of the village revolves around all in the Mani mind-set.

     These and the many chances to walk the paths that the mourners have walked have opened my eyes to a respect for the timeless  museum of granite, marble, slate and the wood.  I place my hand on the chiseled words and feel the warmth of the stone and drink in the sound of the wind through the monuments that draw me to the land of the lost.  The land of the living becomes most real. 

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Ocean Elders saving the Caribbean

compliments of PhotStock

Ocean Elders convene to save the Caribbean
The Necker Island, British Virgin Islands’ retreat, serves as the location of a symposium for corporate leaders and government officials to save an industry. That industry is the 80 Billion dollar tourism and fishing trade of the Caribbean Islands. The perceived destruction of the infrastructure that supports the ecology of the region and the blatant disregard for the preservation of the most visible sea life is the highlights the discussion.

compliments of PhotoStock

Led by Virgin Group Ltd, Chairman, Sir Richard Branson and co-chaired by the Prime Minister of Grenada, The Right Honorable Keith Mitchell, lead a group of industry stalwarts of Disney, Starwood Resorts, Sandals Resorts, The Nature Conservancy and a host of Caribbean Goverments. The outcome is promised as a significant agreement to preserve the island water’s resources. These “Ocean Elders” from St. Kitts, Jamaica, Barbados, Puerto Rico, Grenada and more gather to hammer out the desire of the G-20 the save the pelagic species that are so rich to the draw of over 25 Million Visitors each season.

Shark Reef, Bloodybay, Jam

A start is the ban on the hunting and fishing of those species at most risk. The prohibition of shark hunting and the fishing of the eagle and manta ray for two years are to kick off the moratorium. The management of energy ecology will be considered. Regions near the breeding grounds of whales could be directed toward marine reserve status. Waters off of Haiti have been recognized as breeding grounds of the sperm whales. As the tourism industry promotes the Caribbean sea and build the vessels to carry 4000 at one time to the ports, the stresses are evident. These and further discussions of Goverments and leaders, Ocean Elders, if you will, are imperative.

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Where is My Back Yard?

Island Travelers Unite and Show that Imbedded Skill

Look here for that Location/Architectual Marvel/Panoramic View

THAT YOU KNOW SO WELL

IDENIFY IT

Where is my Back Yard?

 May_14_2013____________ Solution?______ each next Friday!

Architectural Marvel? This structure may compete with many

of the most visible, most photographed, and treasured edifices in its

category, world-wide. Where is my Back Yard?  Enter in Comments.

You guessed it?  Paraportiani Church, Mykonos, Greece

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Santorini Wines Flow like Lava

 Living Santorini Greek Wines: Let the Lava Flow

My first remembrance of this mystical island was the Byzantine chants drifting on Sunday morning through my open window on the edge of the caldera. The chanting Greek priests in the Cathedral of  Thera set the bar high for further Santorini experience.  Several visits in the coming years proved that a surprise was welcomed around every corner on those September island vacations.

A very fond encounter, on one hectic noontime visit in the village of Thera, made  friends for life with Yannis and his mother, Ruella.  The touristic streets and paths in the center of Thera were filled with the Cruise Ship visitors, yet the littlest shop under the steps near the postoffice proved to be the perfect refuge.  It was the strumming guitar and the humming to a Greek fisherman’s song that drew me in to sit and listen. Captain John, Yannis’ friend,  put down the guitar and we all greeted each other. The postcards, lottery tickets and the aging souvenirs on dusty long forgotten shelves were behind Yannis.  His diploma of Notary and the religious icon art on the walls, and the stacks of documents in organized piles proved the 60-year-old man was more than perceived. Yannis lived on Santorini his entire life. He and mother, Ruella, perhaps at age 80, lived steps away in the vine-draped whitewashed house, situated on a narrow path in a Greek courtyard.  A rusted and dented Vespa motor scooter gave Yannis his mobility.  The shop was alway open.

The full white beard and the stock of white flowing locks contrasted with the well tanned face and arms on his near five foot frame.  St. Nicholas in khaki shirt and pants was more of the total vision of his appearance.  Yannis spoke english, though a nod and the Greek expression, “Nai” or yes, always with a smile, made most conversation flow.  The visitors to the shop were steady and regulars of local commerce, some farmers, fishermen and several realtors.  In island government, Yannis made the official transactions happen. He knew them all.  Captain John, the guitarist, but also island real estate developer, was a fine friend. In fact, Yannis had dozens of very close friends, very few local family members, and was a life-long bachelor.

The ability as an outsider to be humbled with acceptance into the home of a proud and stoic traditional family on Santorini is very special.  The thongs of tourists and day trippers that come to this speck in the Aegean Sea, an angelic perch above the crater of a still active volcano, dominate a very short island season.  The year-round families and businesses endure for the considerable “off-season”, in an isolated and protective life.  Ruella, on her four and one half-foot height, and dressed for decades in her widow’s black, maintained a simple house.  Discarded olive oil tins hang filled with fresh herbs, amongst the red bougainvillea flowers that climb the front porch.  Cats sit on the stoop and canaries sing in the wire hanging cages in and out of the house.  Cycladic dark cedar furniture, linens and religious icons fill the house.  The china cabinet and several  fine porcelain vases fill the one wall with the photograph of Ruella’s second son, Father Vlavianos, the Greek Orthodox Arch Bishop in Chicago, IL, USA.  The invitation to eat dinner and join with Captain John,  at their home with Ruella to cook was easy to accept.

I love all Greek food.  I will try anything, yet, much of the local foods of Santorini are imported, with exception of produce and some fishing.  Yannis’ household was all natural: locally caught, locally grown, and most importantly locally pressed and bottled!

The night began with a dram of raki.  The distilled spirit had a tendril of fennel immersed in the thick bottomed aged glass wine bottle. It was potent and hot on the throat, made to open the senses. Yiamas was the toast to our health.  Soon Ruella’s icebox was opened to produce the dark green unlabeled wine bottle from Yannis’ vineyard.  Yannis proudly talked about his father and grandfather’s grape vines.  Several acres on a track of land toward the caldera road to the Village of Pyrgos is the location of the vineyard.  The soil is ocher, appears very dry, contains one small cinderblock tin roofed structure and a wire fence encircles it with one gate.  Tourbuses on way to Akrotiri rumble past this nondiscript location without fanfare.  The grapes are white Assyrtiko and Athiri.  The rows of Yannis’ grapes are non existent, as the land is planted in clusters.  The vine stems are now ancient and five-inch base stems throw off the vines each year in the volcanic soil of Santorini.  The morning air is rich in moisture up from the sea far below in the crater. The heat of midday pulls the sugars up into the grapes. Very little rain in the summer and fall months requires the porous subsoil to give up the winter deposits from deep below the surface.  These characteristics make a dry, citrus aroma, hinting of salt, acidic full-bodied wine.

Yannis explained the family church.  Most older family landowners retain a small church on their property.  It is used for religious events from year to year and maintained with the proper icons and candles and offerings.  Yannis takes the harvested September grapes to his church and spreads them to air dry on the stone pavement adjoining the church for ten to 14 days. Covered with gauze to protect from birds, they mellow and concentrate the sugars ready for pressing.  Soon the grapes are brought to a local press and filtered and barreled.  They are stored near the church and some are bottled.

The dinner was wonderful. The start became a hit as a filefish was baked in garlic and olive oil and the crusty local bread combined well.  Ruella grows the special baby white eggplant, unique to the island.  These were sliced into discs and fried in light egg and flour batter.  The finish was the morning harvested local rooster, baked on Greek oregano stems, and feta cheese cubes over warm slices. Horta greens were bathed in lemon juice, salt and olive oil.  The desert was local pastry shop, daily baked, sweets.  The local made wine was two years in the process and paired perfectly with the food.  It was a couple of percentages more in alcohol, but refreshing to taste.  The night went a bit longer that imagined.  We all laughed and Captain John played more guitar.

When September comes the vineyard owner must act.  Three days after the dinner we went to the vines.  The time was right.  Yannis opened the little structure, we took wicker baskets, hook-shaped paring knives and we headed to the closer grapes.  The vines are twisted into wreath like circles.  Inspecting the grape bunches was a shocking treat.  Those nearer the ground were so robust in swollen juice, that each grape pressed against its neighbor into a cubic block of grape bunch. A flick of the wrist and the block fell into the wicker, then on to the next.  Several baskets finished the task.  At noon, the work was, well, hard.  A breeze was blowing off the lip of the crater’s edge.  We transferred all to the little church, said a prayer, and had a sip of last years wine out of a plastic liter jug, a little warm but alright.  All was perfect to finish a great day.  I am certain the grapes seasoned and were pressed into a fine batch.  Yannis was a perfect host this visit.

Yannis hopped onto his Vespa and had plenty of people looking for him back at his little shop.  The restaurants on Santorini are supplied by several commercial wineries. A carafe at a favorite taverna is the way to go.  I especially like the dry wines of Santos Winery, and Boutari assyrtiko white is readily available away from Greece.  Prices have risen some over the years but the cost is worth the pleasure.

 

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Lost in the Details

Sunkist2 Island Traveler

This page gives you a little insight of my Travels through my lens.

LOST IN THE DETAILS

Chemist, Oscar Waithe, perfects the blending formula for Mount Gay Rum in their Lab in Barbados, WI

I kind of like exact regularity in a process, as I was given a unique private journalistic tour of the Mount Gay Plant of Barbados.

Monastraki Flea Market of Athens, Greece is the closest to organized confusion seen, yet the details get accomplished.

I also love the random madness of this treasure in the center of the Plaka District and every turn presents another remarkable quality of industrious detail.

 

 

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