Mykonos, Greek Island playground

Vacationing on Mykonos is a 9 to 5 Job:   Nine in the Morning to Five in the Morning!

I love every hour of it, and have for summers for about twenty-five plus years. Yes, I have the routine down pat. You really need to stay on the island for several days minimum to get the rhythm and fall into a hypnotic state. I drink in the hours into their own zone of continuity.  Mornings are leisurely, breakfast is light, Photo opps prevail.  Noon is the time to mobilize to the beach, Paradise or Super Paradise or out past Ano Mera Town to a secluded cove.  Taverna food on the beach fits in somewhere.  High Five Hour is for partying on the beach bar [ literally, standing on the bar to the euro disco beat].  The  sunset brings its joy. Nap time back at the Villa.  Then the rest is open.  Dinner out in Mykonos town. Then to the clubs.  Five A. M. comes around darn fast.  Repeat all above as often as necessary.

 

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Give me the Drachma, in silver please!

My fondest conversion rate memory was on September 5th, 2001 on the Island of Santorini, two days prior to return to Athens by air and on to the Plaka District to a hotel rooftop swimming pool.  All this was occurring before the infamous September 11th.

The best Exchange rate was: 5,000 Drachma for: two oceanside Chaise Lounges and one Blue and White Stripped Umbrella.  The Ice Cold Mythos Beer was 500 Dr.  In US greenbacks, all about twelve bucks!

Questions abound on the sustainability of the Greek Euro and the reversion to a “new Drachma”.

The Euro Note Code Scheme

German X, Spanish V,  France U, Ireland T, Portugal M, Italy S,   Belgium Z,  Cyprus G, Luxembourg (1),  Malta F, Netherlands P, Austria N, Slovenia H, Slovakia E and Finland L.

                                            Greek notes start with a Y.

 My solution:

In 1954, the drachma was revalued at a rate of 1000 to 1. The new currency was pegged at 30 drachmae = 1 United States dollar. In 1973, the Bretton Woods System was abolished; over the next 25 years the official exchange rate gradually declined, reaching 400 drachmae to           $1 U. S. dollar.  On January 1, 2002, the Greek drachma was officially replaced as the circulating currency by the Euro, and it has not been legal tender since March 1, 2002.

LUCANIA, Elea-Velia. Circa 535-510 BC. AR Drachm (3.87 gm).  Forepart of a lion right, tearing at stag’s leg / Quadripartite incuse square.

Greek coinage commenced soon after the city’s foundation and its types (forepart of lion devouring prey/incuse square) and denomination (Phokaian silver drachm) reflect the Asian origin of the early citizenry of  Velia. Later, in the 5th century, the weight standard of the Velian coinage was assimilated to that of the Achaean cities of Magna Graecia producing a coin of about 8 grams.

Per data from CNBC, Greece will need 375 Million Notes.  They will need 1.5 billion Coins.  The nation has one Goverment Printer and one Print Press.  At a rate of 65 million notes capacity per month, the task may take half a year. A credit system, barter system and/or the old Euro conversion to new Dr. system will need to be installed.  A daunting task and thought.

Bring back the Ancient Coinage with a lion devouring  a stag’s leg in Silver please. I’ll be filling my pockets.

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Karolina paints the Mykonos sky

Her art embodies the carefree life on the earth’s most infamous summer island.

If I could turn back the clock to the 1960’s and make my way on a Tramp Steamship to the Aegean isle of Mykonos, one colorful character would emerge as legendary: Caroline Wells.  Blessed with talent, this Boston born fine arts educated painter etches her mark in history. 

Mykonos is a curious location.  It seems that everyone wanted to control the land and wealth of this minute piece of heaven for millennia.  Even the Greek gods marked this as their turf on the adjoining speck called Delos.  The Barbary Pirates worked the harbors only 500 years back.  So much so, that the nibble residents built their port town streets into a maze to divide and conquer the marauding cut-throats.  These mazes of whitewashed paths remain today.  And today still, the throngs of visitors and cruisers overwhelm the port from April to October.

On her journey to Mykonos, Ms. Caroline Wells was christened Karolina, struck by the beauty of the Cycladic island and had settled in as a prominent citizen.   Her art is a primitive, almost child- like, depiction of the life and cubic architecture of the region.  Vibrant blues, two dimensional Greek sailor figures, whimsical pelicans and cobblestoned vistas in oil on canvas or board find world-wide homes.  Her paintings reflect a light-hearted glimpse into the career path of a strong willed woman and her vision of  liberation on a tiny Greek island.  Raising two children, now grown, and wintering in New York, while summering on Mykonos, she holds a special place in the hearts of the island locals.  Her paintings are owned by Armani, Valentino, Yehuni Menuhin, Gigli and others to include corporations and featured in well worn travel guides.

She can be seen sipping coffee in a taverna by afternoon and on the harbor of Mykonos on a balmy evening amongst strolling visitors.  The Greek fisherman’s cap is the give-a-way!  Several fresh painting can be seen propped next to the seawall.  My stroll though the narrow paths of Mykonos with her proved her identity to the path she has chosen.  And, unlike the Barbary Pirates of the past, she is not lost.  Look for Karolina.

    

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Living Life to the Fullest, like Zorba

 Greece Tourism:  Can  A Five Year Austerity Plan Change Human Nature to “Live Life”

It used to be that June was the Italian Families, July was the English and Swedes, August was for the German Households and September for the Rich Texas Brides and then, me.  The summer in Greece and on their Islands in the Aegean Sea was the melting pot for the liberal exodus of Euro Travelers on extended holiday. Where were the Greeks then?  Well, they were around but in those places that the rest knew not.

A recent Eurobarometer public opinion survey said seven out of 10 Greeks will be opting for a local holiday destination this summer. Tight budgets and austerity and the pinching of the retirement incomes, with more planned, has changed Greek tourist history:  to that of  belt tightened planning.

Further, Greek unions on Thursday called a two-day general strike next week to coincide with debate in Parliament on a fresh package of belt-tightening measures.  Demonstrators in Syntagma Square, i.e., the “Times Square/Steps to White house of Athens” , who have occupied this space in front of the Greek Parliament building for about a month, are also planning a strong showing. A general strike set to take place next week is expected to once again paralyze the center.  Greeks need to get away from this.  Local travel is geared up with some special last minute deals at 50% discounts.

www.Greektouristguides.gr  or  www.GoldenDeals.gr  or  www.Travelplanet24.com

The Flying Dolphins are booked solid, as are Aegean Air to the Jewels in the Greek seas.

The Greeks know the ropes and will make the necessary adjustments as needed.  The rest of Europe will now have to fight side by side with them for summer bliss.

Hey Merkel, leave the Greeks alone   By Nick Malkoutzis, Ekathimerini, the English Translated Greek Newspaper, writes:

“…It is just over a year since Greece signed its 110-billion-euro bailout agreement. As the country continues to teeter on the edge of economic collapse and doubts about the viability of the euro persist, it is easy to forget that within this bigger picture there are little people paying the price. They are paying for the failures of their leaders.  The pension law passed in Greece last year will raise the retirement age to 63.5 by 2015.

In her speech, Merkel also suggested that Greeks take too much time off work. But a study by Mercer Human Resource Consulting found that while there are big variations between holiday entitlements in the EU, the differences between Greece and Germanyare not that great. The report indicated that an employee in Greece with 10 years’ service will have a total of 37 days’ leave each year (12 of them public holidays) while his or her colleague in Germany will receive 33 days off (13 of them public holidays). Four days a year difference hardly seems like the greatest injustice within the eurozone, nor is it the cause of the downfall of the Greek economy.

The image of the undisciplined Greek loafer who fritters away the day doing nothing is proving useful for a number of European politicians, not just Merkel, but it is difficult to criticize them when the government inAthensis doing nothing to combat this image. If anything, it is allowing it to be cultivated — perhaps because Greece’s politicians feel that this way they have an alibi when they are unable to meet the targets set by the EU and the IMF. It is easier to blame economic and political shortcomings on social inadequacies or cultural traits rather than accept your own failure.

If the last year has taught us anything, it is that millions of Greeks, who want to be part of a modern, efficient country and a progressive EU, are trapped. They are caught between austerity measures that are choking the economy, politicians at a national and European level that lack courage and a state apparatus that is not fit for the 21st century.  These people are crying out for a helping hand. Comments like those from Chancellor Merkel simply serve to beat them down.”

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Wrong time, Right Place

 American tourist killed in Santorini, Greece rockfall Monday, May 23, 2011

A man, 52, was fatally injured riding a mule on the path to the sea on the caldera of the dormant volcano; his wife and daughter and two Mexican women were also hurt. I’ve ridden these animals and the path is treacherous. But, the Mules are sure-footed. The Donkey drivers are on foot and the tourists love the ride. The Mules are a weathered team of sweaty and dusty animals. Two major paths lead up from the sea at this area and the port area of Thera.  The 52-year-old American tourist was killed on Monday in a rockfall near the old port of Oia on the southern Aegean island of Santorini, police said, adding that the man’s wife and daughter as well as two Mexican tourists were also hurt.

The incident occurred shortly after 3 p.m. on stone path near the port when a mass of earth and rocks tumbled onto the 52-year-old, who had been riding a donkey. The man is believed to have been killed instantly. Santorini Mayor Nikos Zorzos told Kathimerini that landslides are very rare on the island.

My understanding is a tremor of a minor quake may have dislodged the landslide, but these cliffs are very unstable due to the earthquake in the ’50s that really took out this village and the rubble is everywhere.  The beach of Amoudi is directly below the several hundred stone steps from Oia down to the port.  The two wonderful tavernas below are worth every ache and pain.  Try the fried squid brought in on the fishing mini caiiques every morning.  Done in pure cold-press olive oil of that greenish hue and sprinkled in salt and lemon, these are crispy and best served here. A path to the left leads to the nudist beach and the surrounding flat ledges of stone over the inky Aegean Sea.  The water is very clear and drops hundreds of feet in the caldera of Santorini. Massive Oceanliners pass a few hundred yards away from this small beach.

Oh, by the way, if you leave your hard hat home, there is a two lane service road to the port from Oia.  And, the mules appear to need a well deserved break.  Condolences to the bereaved family.

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Mykonos Full Moon Party…why wait?

The Mykonos moon has its draw on the Island in many ways.  The heart of the Greek universe began with the home of the gods on Delos Island a mere two kilometers off Mykonos shores.  When the summer is in full swing and the visitors on the island are busting at the seams, the night offers a world of entertainment.  The Full Moon Party has been in place for decades.

Paradise Beach, the beautiful cove that draws the beach folk in throngs by sea and land, ala fishingboats and buses and mopeds, offers silky sand that is so rare in the Aegean Sea islands.  There are actually five cove beaches on the west coastline. The fishingboats are called “caiques” ( kai- ee’-cays), and converted to passenger ferries on a pay as you go cove by cove basis.  This system real works very well.  The boat captains are a very vocal and colorful lot, in a good way.  As the boats pulls in to the beach at Paradise, the gangplank drops and those wishing that beach depart.  A couple of euros per head is the cost one way.

The beachgoer is then in the most perplexing situation: Which cabana bed to choose?  Here again, there are countless choices. Fifteen euros gets two beds and an umbrella.  Some love the solitude and freedom sans clothing at the  two ends; some perfer the action in the middle in front of the tavernas and the two Clubs.  The music cranks up after the noon hour and then really cranks up after 2 PM.  Techno, trance and latin/ brazilian themes pound the tunes.  Few can sit long and the adult beverages fly.  But the sea is the draw and the cobalt-blue Greek water is also the right temperture. By 4PM the DJs and the Go-Go dancers take it to the next level.  Bar people offer kamakazie shooters and the sun heads to the mountain backdrop.  Caiques pull in and the captains hit the horns to alert those for the trip back to port. 

 So, the  Full Moon Party?  Yes, during the summer Paradise Beach starts the party at 11PM the night of the monthly full moon.  The Clubs stay open all night long.  Tables get reserved and buses ferry the people from town out to the beach and back all night long!  The events are promoted everywhere.  Posters and handouts are colorful and campy. Fireworks punctuate at the end of each party.  They love you to dance on the bar.  Then at the end of the season the big last event is the closing party: All night long.  Gladly the beaches stay open and are perfectly fine into October. Sadly the bars are gone.  But, the Greek gods over on Delos would again be proud of another fine season.

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High above Aegean, Vathia maintains idenity

The vision is clear: Vathia, Greece in the Laconian Prefecture region of the Peloponnese, is etched in time long forgotten.  This village is perched atop a 600 meter high foothill near a 1200 meter high mountain only 10 km from the absolute southern end of the mainland of Greece.  It is truly the last real outpost.  Beyond lies the inky blue Aegean Sea, the idyllic islands of the Cyclades and Crete, then Africa.  Ancient mariners knew this region and the Shoals and impenetrable cliffs down to the sea.  It seems all that tried to conquer this land came up short. Why is that?  Mani, of course.  This is the Mani territory of Greece.  Fierce fighters, fierce women, fierce families, stamina of iron, will to endure generations of Mani tenacity. 

So, this village is made of Mani and the architecture is of Mani.  The surrounding hills produce the rock and the builders understood the best use in their fortresses, homes and churches.  The Mani home is a fortress. The cubes of chiseled stone blocks rise three, four or five levels. Perched on the edge of cliffs, outcrops of gorges or hanging over the sea, these structures are rugged as castles. The windows begin on the second level, hence protection from the marauders of the past. 

Vathia is on the southern Aeropoli highway.  It is 10 km past the turn toward the Caves of Diros.  The switch backs in this two lane road gyrate amongst the olive trees.  Groves rise on the foothills.  Stark crevasses scar the cliffs.  The village looms above. Lighting and shadow play here in unique combination. The last switch back finds the narrow plateau of Vathia.

The structures date back over 300 years.  One road passes through; the other paths are for mules or folks.  The census is unclear; maybe 150 residents? I believe less.  There is little commerce here:  a bed and breakfast, a little taverna  (not open now).  There are lazy dog(s), I saw one.  The village is pretty sleepy.  There is an active church. Several towers are vacant. Some are in disrepair and open to the elements.  “For sale” appears on a few buildings.  Mani homes are hard to comprehend.  They just don’t look lived in.

The meandering paths open the courtyards and the Flora to the visitor. Vines and flowers, fruits and pottery are all over. On a balcony leans a black shawled senior Mani woman keeping watchful eye.  Below are only the cats: Mani cats.  They are fierce Mani cats. She is watchful, though. Little else moves.  The photo opps abound.  The adjacent view back toward the village, from the lip of the road, presents the light of the day in the best angle. Few are on the highway.  Little activity is out on this last stretch of road during the waining summer’s end of September.  The temps are great, sun is high and the nights are clear and brisk.  Small inns and a few hotels in the Areopoli area, back 20 km abound and the cost is under 100 Euros per night with breakfast for two.  Tavernas still take in the days catch and the lambchops are meaty and hearty.  No one goes hungry.  Still the eyes’ of the Mani tell the story: even centuries of Moorish conquest attempts could not break that spirit.   This is a land not to be forgotten.

While tourist organized bus trips traverse this region in the Summer months, most do not make the trip to the point of the Mani pennisula.  The drive to the region from Athens is about four hours.  The drive is mixed amongst grid-lock traffic, beautiful three lane mountain highway toll roads and two lane mountain cliff switchbacks.  The Aeropoli town region is very navigable.  Limeni Village Hotel, 36 units, in the Limeni area, offers one of the great overnights with ample breakfast, pool, bar, and views of the sea.  At 100 to 120 Euros for a double, you will be central to the best of the area.  Mani is yet to be discovered, with exception of the caravaning European summer campers and bus tourists. But the word is getting out.

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Greek Taverna Small Fry, just a start!

When the Taverna has them: bite.

Starters and Appetizers on the greek menu are never ending.  A non-scientific survey would find every form of greek restaurant food  migrating to the Starter Food section.  The reason is simple.  Every item on a Greek Taverna menu is so tasty, that diners don’t wait for the entre section to dig in to their favorite. OK, there are some regular favorites that are elevated to the appetizer hall of fame.  Try the Yohgurt Spread: Sadziki, that cucumber, garlic and touch of vinegar, creamy mixture, that can make any piece of crusty bread smile.  So, every entre item can usually be broken down to appetizer size.  Seafood is high on the list of starters in Greek Tavernas.  The sea in Greece is not far from many towns, villages and cities.  The Greek Islands pride themselves on the most nimble fishing fleets and the morning hours bring abundant daily catches.  Restaurant owners make their way down to the port to buy daily resources.  The harbors are bustling with activity.

The great understanding between the restaurant owner and the customer in the traditional Greek Taverna is simple: transparency and freshness.  My great food moments come when the kitchen theshold is open.  The taverna display cases are refrigerated and stacked  to display appetizers and the ready to eat cooked and soon to be cooked foods.  Pointing to the items bring discussion on the ingredients or a request to order.  Seafood is the same.  Separate displays are presented to show the catch of the day. Layed out on ice with glistening eyes are the boat’s catch or the lobster, squid and octopus, octopodi.  Some of the best tavernas know and use the technique of sundrying the famous greek octopus arms by hanging them to the air to tenderize each.  The method really works and the result is a ready to grill flavor-intense starter.  The grilled sliced tenicles are bathed in olive oil and lemon, then sprinkled with oregano and some salt.  Linger a while on each bite. Oh yes, Ouzo on ice helps wash it down. [more on that subject later.]

Now for the “small fry”:  These fish are about the size of your small finger and cooked whole.  Marides (smelt) are very available on menus and the heads are left on. You eat the whole thing. Don’t bother trying to pick out the bones or you will be there all night.  They are nebulas and good for you.  The key here is to have very fresh fish dredged in flour, and fried in supple olive oil until crisp.  The squeeze of lemon and a touch of sea salt completes the mission. Again, eat the whole minnow.  A variation to the Marides is the smaller fry called Atherina.  They are like eating MacDonalds French Fries.  A plate disappears in no time.

 

 

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When in Greece…”Strike!”

The Heat of the summer tourist season is in full swing, yes? Not really.  The Port of Piraeus, that is the hub of the summer transportation service to the Aegean Sea and the most beautiful visions of tranquility anywhere in the world, is in turmoil.  Since the June 24th, 2010 date,  the two unions that happen to be the KKE communist backed of the several unions that run the port are on strike.  Now this strike can certainly be justified by many.  The labor party is under the gun of the ministers in Greek Parliment to tax by way of an austerity plan.  Cutting pensions and entitlements to the workers seems to be the track to fix a long neglected financial plan.

The outcome of the several day of work slowdown and union strikes may be taking a toll.  The hundreds of thousand tourists are now caught in the middle.  Greek tourism makes up 15% of the nation’s Gross National Product.  The season starts in June and goes to about mid September on the Islands.  Some additonal cultural tourism is maintained thoughout the rest of the year in the mainland cities.  Athens draws the most.  The rails and the fights are subject to these same slowdowns at this time. Within a week 200 Island hopping flights were canceled.  The ferry companies are most impacted.  The burley union workers bar the gang planks to the vessels and wreck havoc here.  The hotels get filled and the backlog of travelers continues.  Ferry company management is attempting to placate the tourists with accomidation rebates, but the cost of cancelled island reservations is mounting. Past tokens of a rose presented to  the bumped traveler by ferry company managers makes little sense.  

Today, tourists are confronted with little recourse, as few planes get to the greek islands and the highspeed “flying dolphins and hydrofoils” lack the seating for passengers and space for vehicals.  The ferry network is a required means to vacation destinations.  The striking workers know how to get to the heart of the government.  The rest of the national services understand this pressure valve, too.  Sanitation workers, postal workers, subway system workers, truck drivers in the farming unions have all used wildcat strikes.  Many more unions participate in sympathy. A recent strike concluded by the pilots of the nations airforce!  Will the military intercede on the Dock worker issue?  This surely isn’t “Mama Mia” the broadway musical, set on the Greek Isles.

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Remember “A TALE OF TWO CITYS”, Think now: A tale of two Europes

How is the Western Traveler to benefit in the Land of the P.I.I.G.S. (the unloved acronym “PIIGS”)?

Portugal, Ireland, Italy, Greece and Spain had negative savings rates (the private sector spent more than it made), and, with the exception of Spain, government deficits. Capital inflows from abroad funded both the public and private sectors’ ability to live beyond their means Tourism was and still is a major part of the GDP. 

 France, Germany and Italy have economic that reflect large private saving rated, though Germany has a higher export-driven inflow, where  in France and Italy the savings are mostly government funded deficits.

In any case, repair of Greek government finances will likely take years. If the IMF were at the helm of a rescue, two elements would likely be recommended: currency devaluation and massive public spending cuts. Greece cannot devalue their currency, and the probability of any member of the Eurozone leaving the currency union is widely thought to be low. Greece can cut public spending, however, and will have to do so.

Germany will need the final approval to the Bailout because they have the money.  That is highly likely.  The IMF believes Greece will need €120 billion over the next several years.  The PIIGS are on economic credit watch.  Examine the crisis and its ramifications for the rest of Europe.  So, the Euro Traveler needs to capitalize and search for the values.

Back to Greece: I met the Prime Minister, The Honorable Mr. George Papandreou.  He is a likeable man with a sensible style and articulate in a Western thought process.  The Greeks are a remarkable people, who have overcome millennia of difficult times, including invaders, pillage, earthquakes and world wars.  The economic turmoil and the internal strife for the Greek people are sadly evident and disruptive.  The peace will return.

Now on values: I believe that you will see the greatest opportunities in two areas.

Consider the EURO Currency was tracking at almost $1.60 USD in the beginning of 2010.  The decline from the sorting out of the serious crisis in the PIIGS And the stress on the rest, may continue the slide from the current $1.30 USD (about a twenty percent increase in Purchase Power on the greenback). Number two; think of the areas where traveler will get the best bang for their buck.  I believe that the Aegean Island cruises will have the greatest discount in prices.  The Hotel Chains may show some reduction, but it is doubtful to expect it.  The 2004 Greek Olympic pricing models never rolled back after that surge.  Land Excursion Tours will be another area of value. Think of the recent film: “My Life In Ruins”, bussing around the countryside.  These concepts can be envisioned in Italy, Spain and Portugal.  These regions truly love tourists. This is their livelihood.

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